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Important caveat: > You must swap out an old electric unit; switching from gas to electric doesn't qualify.[0] That’s a bummer; totally would have done this o

Important caveat: > You must swap out an old electric unit; switching from gas to electric doesn't qualify.[0] That’s a bummer; totally would have done this otherwise [0] https://www.hotwater.com/water-heater-rebates/tva-heat-pump-water-heater-promotion-in-tennessee.html https://www.hotwater.com/water-heater-rebates/tva-heat-pump-...

ProllyInfamous 5mo ago
Interestingly, TVA/EPB/Lowes [7] never asked for our swaps (I threw all four oldtanks away). [7] not Home Depot; AOSmith -eligible, not Rheem (can no longer edit abovepost) ---- Didn't know about the gas disqualifier... or the great URL/reference (thanks)! For future TVA homeowner installers: the website seems to indicate that you MUST use an approved contractor for the rebate — at least December 2025, in EPB/Chatt, this was not required: just had to go to Hixson Lowes and have them look up address and then paid (w/ delivery, not in-stock). ---- Less than a decade ago, I helped install a 38kW [•] tankless/instaHot heater (¡¡¡ that's three 240v40a two-pole circuitbreakers !!!) into a beautiful new home. Homeowner is actively doing his part not maintaining the unit in eventual hopes of justify purchasing a new heatpump waterheater. Godspeed. [•] I think technically it's 28kW -rated (there's a consumer-installed limit, w/o boilermaker license), but the circuits support more w/o 80% derating applied
- quickthrowman 5mo ago
  > I think technically it's 28kW -rated (there's a consumer-installed limit, w/o boilermaker license), but the circuits support more w/o 80% derating applied A tankless water heater is not considered a continuous load so there’s no need to apply the 80% rule. A 60A 2P breaker will have a trip curve that results in a thermal trip for just under 100% of rated current in around 2-3 hours. The fast acting part of the trip curve is magnetic, longer duration trips are thermal. Here’s a link to a Square D breaker guide: https://ressupply.com/documents/square_d/QO_and_QOB_Circuit_Breakers.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorbc66hMmLWdCKo6m9GFjmX4JP5hDbu8VlOW8Me-GC5qZp7DWa- https://ressupply.com/documents/square_d/QO_and_QOB_Circuit_... The trip curve on page 25 of the pdf applies to Square D QO plug-in (residential breakers are usually plug-in, commercial are bolted on) 2-pole breakers rated 120/240V from 45A-60A. Find the 1 (times rated current) at the bottom and follow it up the chart until it intersects with the black area of the trip curve, that is approximately when the breaker will trip at 100% of its rated ampacity. Look at the left hand side to see the time in seconds that it will trip in. It’s hard to see exactly where it intersects, but it’s somewhere between 7000-10000 seconds, or 2-3 hours. So, you need to apply the 80% rule to continuous loads because breaker trip curves are adjusted so the thermal overload trips in 3 or fewer hours at 100% of rated ampacity. If you look at .8 times rated load, the line never intersects the trip curve. Here’s a manual for an A.O. Smith tankless water heater: > https://assets.hotwater.com/damroot/Original/1000/100306523.pdf https://assets.hotwater.com/damroot/Original/1000/100306523.... On page 10, the 4 element, 7kW per element unit draws 58.33A per 60A breaker, 7000/240 = 29.167A, two elements a piece for 58.33A per 60A breaker. It’s lot cheaper to wire up a 28kW electric heater if you have 480V three-phase, it’s only 28000/480/1.732 = 33.68A, all you need is a 35A 3P breaker, three #10s and a #10 ground. 240V single phase needs two 60A 2P breakers, four #6s and two #10 grounds, or if it was a single-point connection, one 125A 2P breaker, two #1/0s and a #6 ground.
  - ProllyInfamous 5mo ago
    The 28kW limit is from the Boilermakers Union, not ours [IBEW] =P As much as I hate AFCI breakers, I do love a well-designed "stupid" heat-response timeout that's in compliance with the NEC. You're correct that residential waterheaters are not "continuous loads" – had slipped my mind. I used a tankless/instahot heater (and helped install a few hundred in the early 2010s) and am so much happier with my hybrid/heatpump tank-type (it is so much cheaper to operate, requiring a relatively minimal upkeep of: an annual drainage). Plus: there are no "miminum flow" requirements/bullshit, which results in some tempermental dishwashing among the water-conscientious (sp?).
    - quickthrowman 5mo ago
      > The 28kW limit is from the Boilermakers Union, not ours [IBEW] =P Ahh gotcha, they must’ve pushed for some good ol trade protectionism after electric boilers came out and high-power tankless water heaters are within their wheelhouse or something like that. I wouldn’t consider it a pressure vessel but I don’t blame them for scooping up the work, lol. I’m not in the union myself, but I do manage IBEW electricians and know enough to be dangerous ;) > As much as I hate AFCI breakers, I do love a well-designed "stupid" heat-response timeout that's in compliance with the NEC. You're correct that residential waterheaters are not "continuous loads" – had slipped my mind. I believe electric tank style water heaters under a certain size are considered continuous loads, but tankless are not. > I used a tankless/instahot heater (and helped install a few hundred in the early 2010s) and am so much happier with my hybrid/heatpump tank-type (it is so much cheaper to operate, requiring a relatively minimal upkeep of: an annual drainage). Plus: there are no "miminum flow" requirements/bullshit, which results in some tempermental dishwashing among the water-conscientious (sp?). Heat pump water heaters seem amazing, 25% of the power usage of a resistive heater, and especially for $250! I wasn’t aware of minimum flow requirements for tankless heaters, I suppose it’s necessary to prevent overheating/steam or something? I mostly see tankless water heaters as part of emergency eyewash station installations, most commercial buildings around here either use boiler water for domestic hot water heating or have point-of-use tank water heaters near sinks/bathrooms.
      - 5mo ago
blitzar 5mo ago
Go to the dump and find an old electric unit, slap it in the corner of your garage?
- ProllyInfamous 4mo ago
  There is small chance of this working. The address lookup (when ordering) verifies through public records how your waterheating occurs. So would only work if no public records of your house is available (and then would probably become much more complicated with paperwork). Using Zillow/Trulia, you can verify if your house's information is publicly available (under features/amenities).

ProllyInfamous 5mo ago

Interestingly, TVA/EPB/Lowes [7] never asked for our swaps (I threw all four oldtanks away). [7] not Home Depot; AOSmith -eligible, not Rheem (can no longer edit abovepost) ---- Didn't know about the gas disqualifier... or the great URL/reference (thanks)! For future TVA homeowner installers: the website seems to indicate that you MUST use an approved contractor for the rebate — at least December 2025, in EPB/Chatt, this was not required: just had to go to Hixson Lowes and have them look up address and then paid (w/ delivery, not in-stock). ---- Less than a decade ago, I helped install a 38kW [•] tankless/instaHot heater (¡¡¡ that's three 240v40a two-pole circuitbreakers !!!) into a beautiful new home. Homeowner is actively doing his part not maintaining the unit in eventual hopes of justify purchasing a new heatpump waterheater. Godspeed. [•] I think technically it's 28kW -rated (there's a consumer-installed limit, w/o boilermaker license), but the circuits support more w/o 80% derating applied

quickthrowman 5mo ago
> I think technically it's 28kW -rated (there's a consumer-installed limit, w/o boilermaker license), but the circuits support more w/o 80% derating applied A tankless water heater is not considered a continuous load so there’s no need to apply the 80% rule. A 60A 2P breaker will have a trip curve that results in a thermal trip for just under 100% of rated current in around 2-3 hours. The fast acting part of the trip curve is magnetic, longer duration trips are thermal. Here’s a link to a Square D breaker guide: https://ressupply.com/documents/square_d/QO_and_QOB_Circuit_Breakers.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorbc66hMmLWdCKo6m9GFjmX4JP5hDbu8VlOW8Me-GC5qZp7DWa- https://ressupply.com/documents/square_d/QO_and_QOB_Circuit_... The trip curve on page 25 of the pdf applies to Square D QO plug-in (residential breakers are usually plug-in, commercial are bolted on) 2-pole breakers rated 120/240V from 45A-60A. Find the 1 (times rated current) at the bottom and follow it up the chart until it intersects with the black area of the trip curve, that is approximately when the breaker will trip at 100% of its rated ampacity. Look at the left hand side to see the time in seconds that it will trip in. It’s hard to see exactly where it intersects, but it’s somewhere between 7000-10000 seconds, or 2-3 hours. So, you need to apply the 80% rule to continuous loads because breaker trip curves are adjusted so the thermal overload trips in 3 or fewer hours at 100% of rated ampacity. If you look at .8 times rated load, the line never intersects the trip curve. Here’s a manual for an A.O. Smith tankless water heater: > https://assets.hotwater.com/damroot/Original/1000/100306523.pdf https://assets.hotwater.com/damroot/Original/1000/100306523.... On page 10, the 4 element, 7kW per element unit draws 58.33A per 60A breaker, 7000/240 = 29.167A, two elements a piece for 58.33A per 60A breaker. It’s lot cheaper to wire up a 28kW electric heater if you have 480V three-phase, it’s only 28000/480/1.732 = 33.68A, all you need is a 35A 3P breaker, three #10s and a #10 ground. 240V single phase needs two 60A 2P breakers, four #6s and two #10 grounds, or if it was a single-point connection, one 125A 2P breaker, two #1/0s and a #6 ground.
- ProllyInfamous 5mo ago
  The 28kW limit is from the Boilermakers Union, not ours [IBEW] =P As much as I hate AFCI breakers, I do love a well-designed "stupid" heat-response timeout that's in compliance with the NEC. You're correct that residential waterheaters are not "continuous loads" – had slipped my mind. I used a tankless/instahot heater (and helped install a few hundred in the early 2010s) and am so much happier with my hybrid/heatpump tank-type (it is so much cheaper to operate, requiring a relatively minimal upkeep of: an annual drainage). Plus: there are no "miminum flow" requirements/bullshit, which results in some tempermental dishwashing among the water-conscientious (sp?).
  - quickthrowman 5mo ago
    > The 28kW limit is from the Boilermakers Union, not ours [IBEW] =P Ahh gotcha, they must’ve pushed for some good ol trade protectionism after electric boilers came out and high-power tankless water heaters are within their wheelhouse or something like that. I wouldn’t consider it a pressure vessel but I don’t blame them for scooping up the work, lol. I’m not in the union myself, but I do manage IBEW electricians and know enough to be dangerous ;) > As much as I hate AFCI breakers, I do love a well-designed "stupid" heat-response timeout that's in compliance with the NEC. You're correct that residential waterheaters are not "continuous loads" – had slipped my mind. I believe electric tank style water heaters under a certain size are considered continuous loads, but tankless are not. > I used a tankless/instahot heater (and helped install a few hundred in the early 2010s) and am so much happier with my hybrid/heatpump tank-type (it is so much cheaper to operate, requiring a relatively minimal upkeep of: an annual drainage). Plus: there are no "miminum flow" requirements/bullshit, which results in some tempermental dishwashing among the water-conscientious (sp?). Heat pump water heaters seem amazing, 25% of the power usage of a resistive heater, and especially for $250! I wasn’t aware of minimum flow requirements for tankless heaters, I suppose it’s necessary to prevent overheating/steam or something? I mostly see tankless water heaters as part of emergency eyewash station installations, most commercial buildings around here either use boiler water for domestic hot water heating or have point-of-use tank water heaters near sinks/bathrooms.
    - 5mo ago

blitzar 5mo ago

Go to the dump and find an old electric unit, slap it in the corner of your garage?

ProllyInfamous 4mo ago
There is small chance of this working. The address lookup (when ordering) verifies through public records how your waterheating occurs. So would only work if no public records of your house is available (and then would probably become much more complicated with paperwork). Using Zillow/Trulia, you can verify if your house's information is publicly available (under features/amenities).