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Step the GPU voltage up to 48V. (anyway you make a new connector that's not compatible with existing PSUs. Why not actually fix a problem at the same time, once
by mpreda 2y ago
Step the GPU voltage up to 48V. (anyway you make a new connector that's not compatible with existing PSUs. Why not actually fix a problem at the same time, once and for all! [48V should be enough for anybody, right?])
- Kirby64 2y agoUntil the US changes their AC power connectors, we just don’t have a use case for it frankly. When the entire system is going to always top out at 1200W or so (so you have an extra few hundred watts for monitors and such), we’re pretty limited to maximum amperage.
- ielillo 2y agoThe USA has 240 volt plugs. They are only used for high power appliances such as AC or ovens. If you want, you could add a plug for your high powered space heater AKA gaming PC.
- Kirby64 2y agoI’m aware we have 240V outlets. They are just not used in a place where you would put a PC. Until there is a shift in need (I.e., every normal user would need more than a 120V plug could handle), you won’t ever see 240V outlets in offices. I suspect it will never happen. In server areas and extremely specialized stuff? Yea, sure. But we’re talking desktop PCs here.
- engineer_22 2y agoI envy my European friends' 240v electric kettles
- IsTom 2y agoAnd to drive that point home, we get induction stoves that run on three-phase 400V.
- engineer_22 2y agoD':
- sangnoir 2y agoBritish kettles draw so much power, the electric utility had to consider the additional power draw on the grid from synchronized tea-making during the commercial breaks of a popular soap opera, back when broadcast TV was king.
- diggan 2y ago> I envy my European friends' 240v electric kettles ... do you not have electric kettles in the US? Foolishly, I thought this was a standard kitchen appliance all over the world, I've even seen it in smaller cities in Peru.
- Kirby64 2y agoWe do, but they’re limited to much lower wattage due to the outlet limits. A typical US kettle is 1100-1400W, and takes maybe 1-2 minutes to boil. Kettles in the UK are typically 2.5-3kW.
- ryao 2y agoAmazon lists 1500W models: https://www.amazon.com/electric-kettles/b https://www.amazon.com/electric-kettles/b
- malfist 2y agoAnd they're probably not real. Take look at any of the clones of the dyson hair dryer and check their proclaimed RPMs, many of them would have the tip of the fan blade spinning at several mach if they actually hit their limit. There's aquarium heaters on amazon that say they're 10kw or more and plug into a 120 outlet. I bought a magnet that is supposed to hold "150 pounds", but pulls off the ceiling (in it's strongest position) with just 10-15 pounds. Amazon specs are fake.
- stoobs 2y agoThe Ninja one and probably the Breville ones will be accurate - I have the same Ninja kettle here in the UK and its 3000Watts vs the US 1500Watts.
- Kirby64 2y agoWhat's your point? There's likely a few 1800W kettles that exist too. They are not common, and you definitely will never see anything above 1800W (outside of maybe some specialized commercial product designed for an 20A outlet) in the US. A 'normal' average kettle is going to be ~1200W here. Kettles start at 2kW and go up from there in the UK.
- ryao 2y agoIt is odd that having 240VAC outlets installed in kitchens for kettles has not caught on. A NEMA 6-15R would allow for parity.
- tass 2y agoThere's also 20 amp circuits which are common. Many houses run circuits that are rated for 20 amps even if they don't have the right outlet for it so this is an inexpensive upgrade for most.
- anankaie 2y agoI did not realize the outlet impacts the amperage… Is it a rating issue, or is there an actual part there that will trip?
- colejohnson66 2y agoThe outlet itself doesn't care, but the shape of the receptacle is supposed to restrict insertion of a 20 amp device into a 15 amp socket. You can stick a 15 amp device into a 20 amp socket, but not vice versa. The electrician should be installing 20 amp sockets if the cabling can support it, but many don't. It's the difference between NEMA 5-15 and 5-20: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_5 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_5
- malfist 2y agoNEMA 5-20 is only required for commercial. You can use NEMA 5-15 on a 20A circuit for residential in the US.
- colejohnson66 2y agoWhen I said "should", I didn't mean code required it, but that slapping a 15 amp cover over a 20 amp capable circuit is kindof stupid.
- db48x 2y agoIf the cheaper 14guage wire was used in the walls then only the 15 amp socket is appropriate, otherwise you might plug in a 20amp device and melt the wires or burn down the house.
- revnode 2y agoWe also have 20 amp wiring, 20 amp breakers, 20 amp sockets, and plugs too. A lot easier than going 240 volt. That will give you 2400 watts max.
- dcrazy 2y agoMost residential wiring is 15A except for bathrooms.
- Sohcahtoa82 2y agoAnd kitchens. Otherwise, running your microwave, toaster, and coffee maker at the same time would likely trip the breaker. And obviously, the stove/oven is on its own circuit unless it's gas.
- burnerthrow008 2y agoDon’t forget garages, too.
- ryao 2y agoMy kitchen has at least 2 120VAC circuits, which seems to avoid this.
- Kirby64 2y agoNEC code requires 2 separate 20 amp circuits in a kitchen. Usually they split the circuits across a countertop or window. It's been code since ... as far as I can tell, pretty much forever. Unless you're living in a house that is either non-compliant or built before NEC was required, then it should have this kitchen arrangement.
- bongodongobob 2y agoMost kitchens don't run on only one circuit for the obvious reasons you've described.
- flyingpenguin 2y agoThe problem there would be your breaker. I am not an electrition but I can tell you that when I tried adding a heated MAU to my house, I had to switch to a 120v washer/dryer because my electric panel did not have space for another 208v line. (Note, my building is actually 3 phase 208 volt not 240volt so I don't have 240 volt plugs but 208volt plugs)
- snuxoll 2y agoNot a criticism, but a question. Did you consider adding a subpanel? If you're running a new circuit I assume there was already some drywall patching to be done, seems like it would have been more cost effective and removed future headaches to just give yourself more breaker space.
- lazide 2y agoAt least in the US, a sub panel is an easy grand or two even if it’s right next to the main panel.
- snuxoll 2y agoA lot is going to depend on labor rates for your local electricians, but that costing more than $500 where I am would be outrageous. I do my own electrical, but even I paid a licensed electrician to come handle installing a new panel since I did not have an outdoor service disconnect and didn't feel like fighting with the utility company over de-energizing and re-energizing my service. Ended up needing a lot more done, but the whole thing cost me $2500 to get a new service drop, outdoor meter main, and wiring run to the old panel (in the bedroom on the other side of the main) and the new panel (in the old furnace closed that's now my electrical / network room). But really, doing a subpanel yourself to expand breaker capacity is a really simple project - most people if so inclined could do it themselves. Anywhere from $100-200 for the panel itself depending on how many spaces you feel like adding, up to $80 for a large enough breaker to feed it, and some tens of dollars for SER cable.
- 2y ago
- jml7c5 2y agoYes, but most people don't want to pay the thousands of dollars to get an electrician to do a rewire.
- mpreda 2y agoNow I must use lots of rather thick cables in my desktop (because I run GPUs). Imagine that the GPU would instead suck up all the power it needs through the PCIe connector, without all those pesky cables. (right now PCIe can provied 75W at 12V, i.e. 6.25A; that same current would provide 300W at 48V).
- masklinn 2y agoThe PCIe slot would not be sufficient even if the power architecture moved to 48V: the 12VHPWR are getting 600W pushed through them.
- anticensor 2y agoCard-edge connectors are wattage-bound, they would still be limited at somewhere about 100W if upvolted to 48V.
- RetpolineDrama 2y agoI pulled a fresh 20A (120V) circuit just for my 5090 build.
- Kirby64 2y agoWhat power supply do you have that even has a 20A inlet? 20 amp breakers are common for outlets (especially in newer builds) but the outlets are still 15A outlets. And there is essentially no desktop power supply that exists that would exceed a 15A outlet currently.
- revnode 2y agohttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PJYMK77/zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM/?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PJYMK77/zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aW... I'm sure there are power supplies for servers that go above 1600 watts too. If you really want to, you can ... but you really shouldn't.
- aaronmdjones 2y ago> What power supply do you have that even has a 20A inlet? ATX PSUs usually have IEC 60320 C14 inlets. The IEC 60320 standard itself states that this inlet is only good for up to 10 Amps. UL is happy to ignore them and say that 15 Amps is okay. It wouldn't surprise me if someone else were happy to ignore that and say that 20 Amps is okay. Even still, swapping a C14 inlet for a C20 inlet (IEC max 16 Amps, UL max 20 Amps) would be a relatively easy thing to do (EDIT: on a PSU that is already designed to take more than 15 Amps, obviously). Probably a warranty-voiding action though.
- lazide 2y agoNotably, 20 amps @ 120v is 2400 watts.
- B1FF_PSUVM 2y ago> Step the GPU voltage up to 48V. Meh. Might as well ask for its own AC cable and be done with it.
- mpreda 2y agoBut I want fewer cables, not more.
- B1FF_PSUVM 2y agoPrimary AC cable goes to GPU, and it courteously supplies a short cable to feed the main PSU that only draws half the power ;-) Tail wags the dog, modern style ...
- jmrm 2y agoNot a bad idea IMHO. There are already computers (servers mostly, but also integrated models) who only have 12V power connections and the mainboard does the step-down voltage conversion, and IIRC some companies wanted to do the same to regular desktops. I would be totally happy if the next gen of computers have 12V outputs to the mainboard and CPU and 48V to the GPU and other power-hungry components. This would make the PCB of those cards a bit bigger, but also would have less power losses and less risk of overheated connectors on the other hand.