5 ms·

https://jacquesmattheij.com/long-range-ebike/ https://jacquesmattheij.com/long-range-ebike/ Not the only ones!

samstave 2y ago
I was super envious of this when he first posted it here... However - I bought a ~7,000 e-bike and I love/hate it: I have an Orbea Rise H30 - and its ~36 lbs. The problem is that the magnets in the motor are always engaged - meaning that even when the bike is 'off' I am fighting against the magnets - and it governs me and when off, no matter how hard I pedal - I cant get about 11 miles an hour. It is a type 2 - so it is not supposed to boost you passed 20 miles an hour - but instead it effectively governs you to 20 mph. Its very hard to get it much faster - the fastest I have gotten to is 24.5 mph. Downhill. However - when the battery is powered - its great, except you have to only keep it on BOOST which is the highest of three settings (eco, trail, boost) I'd not buy this bike again. It range is really around ~30 miles - and they have a range booster battery pack for $600 - and I should have bought that when I had the money to throw at it... but yeah the bike sucks when the battery dies.
- actionfromafar 2y ago
  On my bike, I found that disconnecting the battery made the magnets spin freely.
- akgerber 2y ago
  I have a Shimano middrive bike that weighs 50lbs that I purchased on closeout for $1500. It rides like a nice, albeit heavy, bike with the motor turned off.
ActorNightly 2y ago
You can do better then that. CYC motor kits can take up to 72v, and they don't care about talking to the BMS of the battery, so you can pretty much run any battery. The final reduction is external, so they sell different chainring sizes. With higher voltage, you get more motor speed, so you can do a bigger reduction for the same power, which means lower motor required torque for the same wheel torque, which gives you efficiency. I have the 52v setup from them on a full suspension mountain bike, with the 416wh battery, and I have done 30 miles on it with pedal assist and knobby mountain bike tires and basically got the battery down about halfway (im fairly fit and have a higher FTP so I don't require much assist). If I was to build a setup like in your post, with a big 72v battery taking up the entire front triangle of the bike, and use faster rolling tires, I could either have an ebike that can probably keep up with cars on a highway under throttle, or in the pedal assist mode, do over 100 miles.

I was super envious of this when he first posted it here... However - I bought a ~7,000 e-bike and I love/hate it: I have an Orbea Rise H30 - and its ~36 lbs. The problem is that the magnets in the motor are always engaged - meaning that even when the bike is 'off' I am fighting against the magnets - and it governs me and when off, no matter how hard I pedal - I cant get about 11 miles an hour. It is a type 2 - so it is not supposed to boost you passed 20 miles an hour - but instead it effectively governs you to 20 mph. Its very hard to get it much faster - the fastest I have gotten to is 24.5 mph. Downhill. However - when the battery is powered - its great, except you have to only keep it on BOOST which is the highest of three settings (eco, trail, boost) I'd not buy this bike again. It range is really around ~30 miles - and they have a range booster battery pack for $600 - and I should have bought that when I had the money to throw at it... but yeah the bike sucks when the battery dies.

actionfromafar 2y ago
On my bike, I found that disconnecting the battery made the magnets spin freely.
akgerber 2y ago
I have a Shimano middrive bike that weighs 50lbs that I purchased on closeout for $1500. It rides like a nice, albeit heavy, bike with the motor turned off.

ActorNightly 2y ago

You can do better then that. CYC motor kits can take up to 72v, and they don't care about talking to the BMS of the battery, so you can pretty much run any battery. The final reduction is external, so they sell different chainring sizes. With higher voltage, you get more motor speed, so you can do a bigger reduction for the same power, which means lower motor required torque for the same wheel torque, which gives you efficiency. I have the 52v setup from them on a full suspension mountain bike, with the 416wh battery, and I have done 30 miles on it with pedal assist and knobby mountain bike tires and basically got the battery down about halfway (im fairly fit and have a higher FTP so I don't require much assist). If I was to build a setup like in your post, with a big 72v battery taking up the entire front triangle of the bike, and use faster rolling tires, I could either have an ebike that can probably keep up with cars on a highway under throttle, or in the pedal assist mode, do over 100 miles.